Here's the thing about Jeff Rush: If you don't want to talk to him about training for triathlons, heavy-metal thrash music, road bikes or his tattoo, you can always discuss hair products, exfoliating facials, gourmet tofu recipes, loft living and pug dogs.
Mr. Rush is part of a growing and much sought-after demographic: straight men with disposable income and a strong interest in fashion, design and the good things in life that aren't free.
Ever since Mark Wahlberg posed half naked in his Calvin Klein underwear and ignited a clubwear cult, the celebrity momentum behind the movement has been strong. Encouraged by the example of English soccer star David Beckham who flaunts his nail polish, sarongs and tricky hairstyles, and cheered on by shows like Queer Eye for the Straight Guy, in which a team of gay stylists transform dreary straight men into swans, guys are coming out of the beauty closet. Where is the stigma when hot Hollywood "himbos" like Ashton Kutcher ostentatiously avail themselves of mobile spa facilities at this week's Sundance Film Festival in Park City, Utah?
"European men have always been more open to grooming, to things like manicures. North America was the rugged holdout -- until recently," says
Marek Hewryk, a Torontonian who recently launched the 4VOO line of men's toiletries and cosmetics. "Remember that in the past, it was the men who wore the wigs and powder and makeup."
Marketers are eager to see history repeat itself. In the relatively mature beauty sector, competition for a share of this lucrative niche is intense. The female market for skincare and grooming products may be worth about US$95-billion annually, but the male market is growing twice as fast. It's now estimated that the so-called "metrosexual" guys spend US$13.5-billion annually on grooming goods. The number of men colouring their hair climbed 8% in 2002 alone, to more than 10 million -- and that's just those admitting to it.
"I'm a complete product pig," says Mr. Rush, who admits to a penchant for Kiehls' hand cream and Aveda's hair stick pomade. "This makes me sound like some kind of sissy, but the products are more of a regular indulgence. They're totally addictive."
Men are also leading growth in the burgeoning spa industry, representing about 35% of the market. While most of them, like Mr. Rush, go for regular massages, facials and pedicures, the fastest-growing service is waxing.
"Brazilian waxes for men have become huge -- and even if they don't want to go that far, they're doing backs, arms, chests, stomachs and butts," says Daniel Francoeur, co-owner of the The Little House Spa outside Ottawa. "It has become increasingly mainstream, especially in the last 18 months. It's not male models, it's regular guys who want to look better in a bathing suit."
Although his spa offers a special "Men's Den" for those who are shy about mixing with the ladies, Mr. Francoeur says that any initial self-consciousness usually wears off after a couple of visits. That said, the traditional spa jargon has been tweaked for male patrons. A pedicure, for example, is tagged as a "foot fix."
"They may get dragged here by a wife or girlfriend the first time, but they get hooked fast," Mr. Francoeur says. "The biggest surprise in our four years in business is the number of male clients."
Body hair isn't the only type getting attention. Toronto hair stylist Pierre Salvador says that about 35% of his clients, who typically pay about $70 for a haircut, are now male. "About half of them colour their hair or add highlights," he says, "not to cover grey but for a fashion effect."
Lest we think these are occasional spontaneous splurges, Mr. Salvador clarifies: "Guys don't just walk in off the street, they make appointments weeks in advance. And I don't know any guy who doesn't use product and know the differences between gels, pomades and waxes."
If a bikini wax, a facial and a good haircut aren't doing the trick, there are more radical options as well. In 2002, men represented about 15% of cosmetic surgery patients in the U.S. (Canadian figures aren't available). The number of men having nose jobs was up 7% and tummy tucks tripled from the year before.
"About a decade ago, just 2% or 3% of my patients were male. It's now at least 25%," says Dr. Michael Drever, president of the Canadian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons. "It's much more culturally accepted."
Although most of his male patients are in their 30s or 40s, Dr. Drever says the number of older executives and even male teenagers is on the rise. "The emphasis on celebrity and appearance brings them in younger," he says. "And the competition from younger rivals in the work force brings them in older."
For those who consider surgery extreme, there's no shortage of rejuvenating and enhancing lotions and creams exclusively aimed at men. "It used to be that guys stole good cream from their wives or girlfriends, but it's not really suitable because they've got larger pores and more oily skin," explains Mr. Hewryk, the cosmetics entrepreneur. "We've formulated creams that are suited for men."
Aside from basic moisturizer, Mr. Hewryk says that under-eye gels and facial scrubs are very popular items. In response to persistent demand, he recently added anti-shine powder, a bronzer, a concealer and even a clear mascara and brow gel to his line.
"Women have a strong influence," Mr. Hewryk says. "It's not enough just to shave. An accomplished, successful woman wants someone who presents as well as she does, someone who's got polish and style."
The demand for men's grooming products has become so mainstream that James Whitall, who started the Web site MenEssentials.com in 1999 out of Gatineau, Que., is shifting his Internet business to bricks-and-mortar stores. "It used to be that the guys were only comfortable researching and buying these products online, with complete privacy," he says. "But there's been a profound shift. All these die-hard RightGuard dudes are buying body bars, scrubs and hair product. It's word of mouth, it's mass media, it's critical mass."
Clothes, of course, still make the man. At Fly Boutique, a men's wear store in Montreal, they are snapping up retro-style Addidas track suits with fitted flared pants and low-rise jeans. A shipment of wrestling-type boots priced at $240 sold out within a week.
"[Men] are totally willing to spend on clothes and fashion," says saleswoman Shannon Ropeleski. "They know their labels and designers as well as any women."
At the upper end of the market, Christina McDowell, a personal shopper with Holt Renfrew, confirms that velvet jackets and bold colours sell exceptionally well. With jeans, the trend is to a skinny cut that "flatters and elongates."
Not that there's any fat on a male form that's been contoured by massage, Pilates and liposuction.
dmcmurdy@globaltv.ca; Deirdre McMurdy is co-host of Global TV's MoneyWise.
